advanced camera workshop

 The camera we use for these workshops are black magic mini's, to start the workshop we set up the cameras and their tripods to have a starting point. How do we do this? Well, we start with the tripods we start by taking them out the bag then we put all 3 legs on the floor and then we unclip the 3 clips holding the legs in a fixed position, and we lift the first section then depending on the hight we desire we can lift the second section to add some more hight that’s how you get the tripod up. In terms of the camera, you need to get the main body of the camera out of the case you then slowly find were the camera and tripod parts a line (they look like tracks) and then you push the camera on to the tripod. Then to get the camera to look level there is a technique called bubbling the camera. On the tripod there is a spirit level built in you use this when the camera is fitted on to make sure it is level.  

Indoor and outdoor lighting is very different outside the lighting is a bit warmer and inside the lighting is a bit whiter so you need to adjust things like the white balance accordingly when shooting outside you may want the lighting to be a bit colder so you would turn the white balance up were as in the studio the lights may be a bit to cold and harsh so you may want to turn the white balance down to add some warmth back In. Exposure is all about how much light you let the camera take in if the aperture is very low your picture will be a lot darker and if the aperture is all the way open there is a lot of light coming in so it would look extremally bright. You would have to adjust the exposure with all new location changes and lighting changes so the picture isn't to under or over exposed. 

Shutter speed and shutter angle are talking about how many frames per second the camera takes this all determines how sharp your image will look plus it shows motion and blur for example the shutter angle that is used most in the Uk is 180 degrees this is the angle everything looks good at and also the most natural the lower you change the degrees the sharper your image will get this is good for action scenes and also to create a sense of panic. The higher you change the angle the softer your image gets and it gives a blur effect this is used in more intermate and romantic scenes.  

When it comes to the composition of the shot it is important to not just have the subject in the centre dead in the middle it has to be interesting for someone to look at. For example, the classic rule is the rule of 3rds the subject should be positioned two thirds along and one third up. As well is important to have a good depth of field to show some dimension. Another thing to add on is that the monitor is just there to see the framing what it will look like in post, but it is always important to look through the lens to get a good feel on what is going on.  

The difference in the zoom lens and the prime lens is the zoom lens and do lots of different shots for example wide, mid and close but a prime lens just does the one shot. The reason we use a prime lens is that it only has one job to do meaning that it is a better than a lens that has to do a lot more than one job. Is only has to focus on doing one thing making the quality a lot better it also has consistency you know the exact amount it is going to capture. In terms of how to focus a prime lens you position were you want the subject to be you then use a tape measure to measure for a specific point on the camera and then to the subject you work out that distance and then you turn the dial on the camera to that distance and then you use the focus wheel to put them in focus.  

18mm – this is the widest shot in prim lenses we have at Hurtwood this would be used for a big establishing shot to establish the location.  

25mm – this is still a wide shot that could also be used as a establishing shot and also a wide angle  

50mm – is your classic mid shot  

85mm – is the perfect close up shot